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• In Search of the Unspoiled in the U.S. Virgin Islands

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In Search of the Unspoiled in the U.S. Virgin Islands
by Nicole Clausing
Freelance Writer
What's the Difference?
Even seasoned travelers get the U.S. Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands confused. Small wonder--the groups are only miles apart in places. The British Virgin Islands are made up of about fifty islands, ranging in size from small to tiny, with the the most visited being Virgin Gorda and Tortola. Many of the British Virgin Islands are private, or are restricted to guests of resorts on the island. They're all, as you might guess, administered by Great Britain.

The U.S. Virgin Islands, on the other hand, are a group of only three larger islands--though size is relative in this part of the Caribbean. The USVI are a little more developed, and a bit livelier--although again, we're still talking in relative terms. The islands have a history that includes settlement by Danes, Spaniards, the Dutch, and some French explorers. But today the islands are all technically part of the United States. U.S. dollars are used, American newspapers are widely available, and all American laws--including those governing marriage--apply here. Well, almost all laws. One quirk: On St. Thomas, cars drive on the left.


The Virgin Islands politely ask you to stop snickering.

Yes, we know, it's a funny name. But trust us, there are no new virgin jokes the islands haven't heard. And besides, the name isn't meant literally. It refers to the pristine state (we said stop it!) of the white-sand beaches and deep forests of the islands, a state that has only recently begun to change.

These days, the U.S. Virgin Islands still harbor unspoiled beaches, untamed jungle, and fantastic scuba diving and snorkeling. But there are also luxury resorts, nightlife, and plentiful shopping. In addition, the U.S. Virgin Islands are home to the largest cruise-ship port in the West Indies.

Is this a good thing? That's up to you to decide. Luckily, you have a choice. The three islands making up the USVI group all offer a different kind of experience, and just about every kind of traveler is likely to find a suitable place no matter what their level of comfort with development.

St. Thomas
You're most likely to visit this island on a cruise ship. Cruise passengers make up a large percentage of the visitors to St. Thomas, and if more than one ship is in port, this small island gets downright crowded. But before you let the crowds scare you away, keep in mind that St. Thomas also has the best dining in the Virgin Islands, great shopping, lively nightlife, and some of the best beaches in the world. It also boasts Charlotte Amalie, a picture-perfect Scandinavian-tinged town that's one of the most charming hamlets in the Caribbean.

St. Croix
St. Croix is actually larger in landmass than St. Thomas (though at 84 square miles, it's still elegantly compact), but is a bit less chaotic. The main attraction on land is the small town of Frederiksted, originally settled by Danes. If there are no cruise ships in town, you'll be free to explore the lovingly restored 1760 Fort Frederik in the center of town. If cruise crowds are overwhelming (this is less likely to happen here than on St. Thomas, but some major ships do come to call), escape the throng with a visit to the so-called "Rain Forest" at the western end of the island. It isn't a true rain forest, but it is a beautiful cluster of exotic trees harboring even more exotic wildlife. Of course, you can always get away to the beach, as well. There are plenty to go around, and whether you're a diver, a body surfer, or just a lounger, you'll find one you like.

St. John
Tiny, pristine St. John is the most unspoiled of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Fully half the landmass, in fact, is national parkland. Here you'll find an incredible array of wildlife above and below the water--and the coral has to be seen to be believed. Don't come here for nightlife. Hiking, diving, birdwatching, and other daylight activities are the most exciting things to do on St. John. Most visitors wouldn't have it any other way.

Can't decide? You don't really have to. It's easy to travel between the closely spaced U.S. Virgin Islands. St. Thomas and St. John only about five miles apart and are linked by an inexpensive ferry. St. Croix is a bit further afield, about 40 miles from the other two islands. You can travel between St. Thomas and St. Croix by hydrofoil, which takes only about an hour. Don't have that kind of time? You can also travel between the two islands on one of the shortest plane rides you're ever likely to take.•

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Inside Scoop
Because they're a part of the United States, you don't officially need a passport to visit the U.S. Virgin Islands. But if you have one, showing it will speed your arrival and departure. If you don't have one, it's a good idea to bring a photo I.D (such as your driver's license) and a copy of your birth certificate, if possible.